Bloom the yeast: Add the warm water (less than 120°F), sugar, and yeast to the bowl of a stand mixer (recommended, but a regular mixing bowl works). Let rest roughly 5 minutes until the yeast has bloomed.

Mix and knead: Add the remaining ingredients and mix on low speed. This is a very dry dough, so it will take time to come together — usually about 15 minutes of kneading once cohesive. Keep kneading; it will come together. Be sure to periodically give your stand mixer a break, as it's hard on the motor to work such a dry dough.

First rise: Once the dough is thoroughly kneaded and passes the windowpane test, let it rest in a warm place covered with a wet towel or cling wrap for 60–90 minutes.

Shape: Once the dough has doubled, turn it onto a floured surface and split into 6 equal pieces (about 130–135g each). Poke your finger through the center of each ball and stretch it into a bagel shape. The holes shrink while rising and baking, so stretch generously for a pronounced hole.

Second rise: Let the bagels rest 30–60 minutes, or until slightly puffy. Don't over-proof — if they rise too long here, they won't be as puffy after baking.

Boil and bake: While the bagels rise, bring a pot of water to a rolling boil. Add the brown sugar and baking soda (it will foam at first). Drop in the bagels and boil 1 minute, then flip with a slotted spoon and boil 1 minute more. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet, add toppings, and bake at 425°F for 18 minutes.